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creative stitchers

Dress/ Dressmaking

My Christmas Dress

My dress for Christmas this year is made from a dark red Broderie Anglais, but not quite like your ordinary piece of fabric. This one has quite a large embroidered design with gold threads and a bit of diamonte bling. So because it is such a lovely fabric it really only needed a simple dress design.

I used a very simple shift dress pattern with a ‘V’ neckline. The fabric has a ‘cut out’ border along both edges so I used this to my advantage placing the pattern pieces along the borders for both the hem of the dress and the sleeve hems. 

I did not want to interupt the design of the fabric down the side seams so instead of just sewing ordinary seams I overlaid the front and back pieces and appliqued them together. (To do this it is imperitive that a toile is made beforehand as adjustments to fit are just not possible.)

I cut a strip from the border, gathered it up and added it to the neckline. The addition of a little extra diamonte bling to gave it a wow factor!

Sleeves Neckline

Dressmaking/ Jacket

Navy Boucle Jacket

I bought a length of navy blue wool boucle which has a few sequins woven into it, so thought I would make it up into a simple cardigan type jacket. It went together quite quickly using the overlocker but as is my usual way. mid way through the construction I decided to add a silk lining! I also added a sequin trim to the centre front neckline and sleeves and made frog closures for the front opening.

This is the result.

Sequinback Sequinfrog

Dress/ Dressmaking

Red Jersey Dress

Not done a lot of sewing of late as I have been working on my new sewing studio, however I have just made up this Little Red Dress.

I used a Mc Calls Pattern M7016 and a red double knit jersey from my stash. It is a very simple design with a roll collar neckline, but I decided to give it a little personality by adding a couple of rows of double stitching along the front collar and the sleeves. This is very easy to do, you simply use a twin needle in your machine and 2 lots of thread.

Red4 Red3 Red2 Red1

Dress/ Dressmaking

The Power of Straight Stitching

I am singing in a choir concert tomorrow evening and of course like most of us ladies I absolutely ‘don’t have anything to wear’ for the occasion… ha ha!! We have to wear all black, long skirt and long sleeve top, so I consulted my ‘stash’ and came up with 1.5 metres of a lovely wool fabric, not quite enough fabric to make a long dress from so found a silk satin to go with it. I used an old Simplicity pattern 5591 again from my stash but made alterations to it along the way!

The entire dress was underlined using a silk georgette, I like to underline my garments these days as I think it adds quality to the finished garment and it also means that hems etc are not visible from the right side. 

Bodice

For the front bodice I used the silk satin, but as this fabric is considerably lighter in weight than the wool fabric I backed it using some left over brushed cotton I had used on my wedding dress. I ‘quilted’ the two fabrics together simply by stitching straight lines from the centre front outwards, I used a black embroidery thread to do this to add a bit of shine. I also replicated this for the turn back cuffs.  

BD2

An invisible zip is inserted in the centre back seam and i used the satin for the sleeves and cuffs.

For a final bit of ‘bling’ I stitched black buttons with swarovski stones in the centre to the cuffs, centre front and down the back split.

I made a little poppy from some red organza for the night as the theme of the music is about remembrance and the sorrow of war!

BD5 BD4 BD1

Blouse/ Dressmaking

Blouse

I had this piece of cotton fabric in my stash so decided to use it to demonstrate how to make a tailored placket to some dressmaking students, but rather than just use the same fabric for the placket I chose a plain black fabric which I thought would compliment and enhance the look. By using a 1/4″ fusible tape it makes the attachment of the placket so much easier and I think makes for a better finish.

So to finish the blouse (I hate leaving projects half done) I also used the plain black fabric for the undercollar and the facings for the cuffs. 

The blouse has a fly front opening which is highlighted with a ‘saddle’ stitch down the front using a black embroidery thread rather than just a plain straight stitch.

BP1 BP2

Coat/ Dressmaking/ Hats

Competition Coat

A few weeks ago I made a tailored coat from a multi-coloured fabric with piping on the seams and buttonholes etc, it took many hours to complete and I was rather proud of the result, I know some of you have seen it.  Well, I entered it into a competition in an American sewing magazine which I subscribe to and to my surprise it was selected as 1 of 5 semi-finalists. It is was the down to the public to vote for their favourite from the selected 5. 

I can’t tell you how thrilled I was at being chosen as a semi-finalist, and even more thrilled to report that I WON the competition with my coat. 

So thank you to all of you who voted for me. 

The Coat

I made this coat using my own drafted pattern and a length of fabric from my ‘stash’. The coat has been underlined with silk which gives it a luxurious weight and feel to it. I used horsehair interfacing for support adding additional layers to the shoulder area and the top back.

For the main body of the coat I used a quality textured fabric which graduates in colours from a mid-grey through to navy/black and back to grey. The fabric also has a ‘circle’ design with flecks of black on top.  The fabric was carefully prepared so that the design of the fabric flowed around the coat without interruption, matching up the colours and design at the seam lines. I added a raspberry/red piping to highlight the princess style design lines on the front and back of the coat, the collar, the side welt pockets, the sleeve back seam and at the top of the sleeve/shoulder area. I also used the piping for the bound buttonholes at the front opening and on the sleeves. The buttonholes are then further adorned with silver ornaments stitched alongside. The buttons are covered in the same fabric ensuring that the buttons graduate in colour to match each placement area on the coat.

Backpc P1080576 Shoulder detail 91498bc0-d0da-4a1d-aaf4-740259358896

The coat is fully lined using the same raspberry/red fabric as the piping for the main body of the coat whilst I used a grey silk for the sleeves. The lining is attached on the inside with a grey piping at the front and back neck facings edges.  And finally I embroidered my own label on the back neck facing.

P1080582 P1080580

Then finally I made a matching cloche hat with the left over pieces of fabric.

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Dressmaking/ Jacket

The Making of a Chanel Style Jacket

On a recent fabric buying trip (yes I have lots of them) I purchased a length or two of fabric from Linton Tweeds. In case you are not aware, Linton Tweeds, up in Carlisle, have traditionally supplied the big designers including Chanel for many a long year, and the iconic Chanel Jacket was/is traditionally made using Linton Tweeds fabric. 

So, the only thing to do with my purchase is to make my own ‘Chanel’ style jacket………..so here goes.

The Ingredients

I accumulated all the necessary ingredients together

Black & White check fabric for the jacket
White silk Charmeuse fabric, ordered from China
25mm Black trim for the edges
25mm grosgrain ribbon
Buttons for the front opening and sleeves
Silk thread for the construction
Chain for weighting the back
Cotton for the ‘Toile’

Preparation

Before cutting into my expensive fabric I made a mock up of the jacket, (a toile) I was then able to make fine adjustments to the fit and shape of the jacket and transfer those adjustments to my paper pattern pieces.

Toile

The jacket front and back pieces where cut out from the black & white check fabric.

Cutout

The white silk charmeuse fabric I will be using for the lining has winged its way all the way here from China and as you can image was a little creased after its journey, so I had to iron out all the creases before cutting the jacket lining out.

Lining

I used a ‘English Couture’ fusible interfacing for the centre front left and right pieces, removing the front seam and hem allowance from the interfacing before fusing.         

Tip; 

Use a piece of scrap cotton fabric on your ironing board to protect the board from the glue of the interfacing!    

Stabilise the centre front              

A 3/4″ cotton twill tape is added to the front opening seams to stabilise, give weight and support. The tape is pinned into place then stitched just inside the seam allowance making sure not to catch the face fabric. The tape must be equal in length on both sides of the front openings, this is checked by using the paper pattern as a guide. 

Twill

 

The centre front and front pieces are then stitched together. The fabric frays badly so must be handled with care!

Matchseams

The darts are stitched into the 2 back pieces, then stitched together down the centre back seam and pressed. 

Backdarts

 

Seams are carefully pattern matched and basted by hand.

The underarm pieces were stitched to the back. The back lining pieces were then constructed in the same manner.

Backquilting

Seams are pressed open then serge stitched down, this both keeps the seams flat and helps to prevent further fraying.

Catchstitch1

A back neck facing is fused to give support to the area and shaped using the iron.

Neckfacing

 

With wrong sides together the lining was pinned to the centre back seam and permanently hand stitched into place. 

The lining is then opened up across the back, basted into position then quilted to the check fabric through both layers. This can be done by machine but I did not want the machine stitching to be visible on the right side of my jacket so chose to quilt it by hand. The front pieces were quilted in in the same manner.

Pockets

Next is the pockets. I interfaced the inside of the fabric to give them strength and body. The grosgrain ribbon followed by the black trim was hand stitched to the pocket fronts. On the wrong side the seam allowances are turned in and serge stitched in place by hand. The lining is slip stitched into place, and invisibly stitched to the jacket fronts.

Pocket1 Pocket3 Pocket2 Pocket4

Shoulders

After a good pressing, the shoulder seams are machine stitched and serge stitched down.

shoulderseam

Hem

Interfacing cut on the bias was fused to the hem to give it strength & support followed by the grosgrain ribbon and trim hand stitched to the right side front edges and hem. This alone took over 5 hours to do!

 

The hem of the lining was then hand stitched into place along the back.

fronttrim1

I have spent about 35 hours on it so far and it is still  ‘Work in Progress’

Collar

Next to create was the collar. A strip a fabric is cut and steamed to shape the collar, this preserves the fabric design around the neckline whilst shaping at the same time. The seams were turned in and stitched down and hand stitched to the jacket.

collar3 Collar

collar4

The collar facing was prepared in the same way as the outer collar by steaming and shaping into the correct shape and hand stitched to the outer collar being careful as always in matching up the fabric design.

Sleeves

Then the sleeves. There are 3 pieces to this sleeve and they have to cut out precisely matching up the pattern of the fabric. The underarm piece was machine stitched to the front and back pieces, leaving the centre seam open. The seams are then hand serge stitched down for a neater finish. I fused some interfacing to the lower edge for support, turned in the seam allowances around the same and stitched the gros grain ribbon trim to the right side followed by the buttonholes. The lining sleeve pieces are then machine stitched together in the same way and  hand ‘quilted’ to the face fabric as previously done on the main jacket front and back pieces. They are then sewn into the jacket.

sleeves3 sleeves2 sleeves1

Buttonholes

I created some ‘faux’ bound buttonholes for the inside of the front facings, hand stitching them to the worked buttonholes on the inside and to the interfacing. This makes them look neat from the inside. The front facings are then hand stitched into place along the front seam and hem,  and openings created for the buttonholes on the inside of the right hand facing.

buttonholes

The collar facing was prepared in the same way as the outer collar by steaming and shaping into the correct shape and hand stitched to the outer collar being careful as always in matching up the fabric design.

Chain Weight

Then a chain weight is stitched to the hem of the jacket, this helps to balance out the weight of the jacket and is traditionally added to all ‘Chanel’ Jackets.

chainweight

Once the buttons have been sewn into place the last thing to do is to add my labels. The Linton Tweed label I stitched to the inside left facing and my own ‘Plumleia’ I stitched to the inside back facing.

Label2 Label1

After some 75 hours of work it is now FINISHED

 

Bags

Patchwork Bag

I have in my fabric ‘stash’ a length of handwoven cotton striped fabric from Guatamala. And as I am running a patchwork bag workshop shortly I thought I would make up another bag to see how it turns out. I added 6 wooden buttons to the front and stitched them on using different coloured threads.

Its a good sized weekender bag or just for shopping.

Covers/ Cushions

Garden Bench

I was given a piece of fabric of late and pondered what to do with it? Me thinks it would make a suitable cushion for the garden bench……….. I took the measurements of the bench, cut out the fabric leaving sufficient for the seam allowances and used the innards from a couple of redundant garden chair cushions.

Voila………. a new bench cushion for just a little bit of effort!!

bench2 bench1