Dressmaking/ Jacket

The Making of a Chanel Style Jacket

On a recent fabric buying trip (yes I have lots of them) I purchased a length or two of fabric from Linton Tweeds. In case you are not aware, Linton Tweeds, up in Carlisle, have traditionally supplied the big designers including Chanel for many a long year, and the iconic Chanel Jacket was/is traditionally made using Linton Tweeds fabric. 

So, the only thing to do with my purchase is to make my own ‘Chanel’ style jacket………..so here goes.

The Ingredients

I accumulated all the necessary ingredients together

Black & White check fabric for the jacket
White silk Charmeuse fabric, ordered from China
25mm Black trim for the edges
25mm grosgrain ribbon
Buttons for the front opening and sleeves
Silk thread for the construction
Chain for weighting the back
Cotton for the ‘Toile’

Preparation

Before cutting into my expensive fabric I made a mock up of the jacket, (a toile) I was then able to make fine adjustments to the fit and shape of the jacket and transfer those adjustments to my paper pattern pieces.

Toile

The jacket front and back pieces where cut out from the black & white check fabric.

Cutout

The white silk charmeuse fabric I will be using for the lining has winged its way all the way here from China and as you can image was a little creased after its journey, so I had to iron out all the creases before cutting the jacket lining out.

Lining

I used a ‘English Couture’ fusible interfacing for the centre front left and right pieces, removing the front seam and hem allowance from the interfacing before fusing.         

Tip; 

Use a piece of scrap cotton fabric on your ironing board to protect the board from the glue of the interfacing!    

Stabilise the centre front              

A 3/4″ cotton twill tape is added to the front opening seams to stabilise, give weight and support. The tape is pinned into place then stitched just inside the seam allowance making sure not to catch the face fabric. The tape must be equal in length on both sides of the front openings, this is checked by using the paper pattern as a guide. 

Twill

 

The centre front and front pieces are then stitched together. The fabric frays badly so must be handled with care!

Matchseams

The darts are stitched into the 2 back pieces, then stitched together down the centre back seam and pressed. 

Backdarts

 

Seams are carefully pattern matched and basted by hand.

The underarm pieces were stitched to the back. The back lining pieces were then constructed in the same manner.

Backquilting

Seams are pressed open then serge stitched down, this both keeps the seams flat and helps to prevent further fraying.

Catchstitch1

A back neck facing is fused to give support to the area and shaped using the iron.

Neckfacing

 

With wrong sides together the lining was pinned to the centre back seam and permanently hand stitched into place. 

The lining is then opened up across the back, basted into position then quilted to the check fabric through both layers. This can be done by machine but I did not want the machine stitching to be visible on the right side of my jacket so chose to quilt it by hand. The front pieces were quilted in in the same manner.

Pockets

Next is the pockets. I interfaced the inside of the fabric to give them strength and body. The grosgrain ribbon followed by the black trim was hand stitched to the pocket fronts. On the wrong side the seam allowances are turned in and serge stitched in place by hand. The lining is slip stitched into place, and invisibly stitched to the jacket fronts.

Pocket1 Pocket3 Pocket2 Pocket4

Shoulders

After a good pressing, the shoulder seams are machine stitched and serge stitched down.

shoulderseam

Hem

Interfacing cut on the bias was fused to the hem to give it strength & support followed by the grosgrain ribbon and trim hand stitched to the right side front edges and hem. This alone took over 5 hours to do!

 

The hem of the lining was then hand stitched into place along the back.

fronttrim1

I have spent about 35 hours on it so far and it is still  ‘Work in Progress’

Collar

Next to create was the collar. A strip a fabric is cut and steamed to shape the collar, this preserves the fabric design around the neckline whilst shaping at the same time. The seams were turned in and stitched down and hand stitched to the jacket.

collar3 Collar

collar4

The collar facing was prepared in the same way as the outer collar by steaming and shaping into the correct shape and hand stitched to the outer collar being careful as always in matching up the fabric design.

Sleeves

Then the sleeves. There are 3 pieces to this sleeve and they have to cut out precisely matching up the pattern of the fabric. The underarm piece was machine stitched to the front and back pieces, leaving the centre seam open. The seams are then hand serge stitched down for a neater finish. I fused some interfacing to the lower edge for support, turned in the seam allowances around the same and stitched the gros grain ribbon trim to the right side followed by the buttonholes. The lining sleeve pieces are then machine stitched together in the same way and  hand ‘quilted’ to the face fabric as previously done on the main jacket front and back pieces. They are then sewn into the jacket.

sleeves3 sleeves2 sleeves1

Buttonholes

I created some ‘faux’ bound buttonholes for the inside of the front facings, hand stitching them to the worked buttonholes on the inside and to the interfacing. This makes them look neat from the inside. The front facings are then hand stitched into place along the front seam and hem,  and openings created for the buttonholes on the inside of the right hand facing.

buttonholes

The collar facing was prepared in the same way as the outer collar by steaming and shaping into the correct shape and hand stitched to the outer collar being careful as always in matching up the fabric design.

Chain Weight

Then a chain weight is stitched to the hem of the jacket, this helps to balance out the weight of the jacket and is traditionally added to all ‘Chanel’ Jackets.

chainweight

Once the buttons have been sewn into place the last thing to do is to add my labels. The Linton Tweed label I stitched to the inside left facing and my own ‘Plumleia’ I stitched to the inside back facing.

Label2 Label1

After some 75 hours of work it is now FINISHED

 

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