Browsing Tag:

Toile

Dressmaking/ Jacket

Tartan Jacket

With this Jacket I won a Stitcher of the Year competition with Love Sewing magazine, Sept 2016

I recently made this ¾ length jacket ready for the Autumn. The pattern for the coat is based on a Burda princess line coat pattern 8292, which I have had for some years, but I chopped it up to create the various panel pieces of the coat.

The main tartan fabric is from Linton Tweeds, the background is black with a white and dark red threads woven through to create the tartan design. For some of the accent panels I used a dark red fabric which has little squares embroidered on. To this I added a layer of wadding and quilted each panel either with just straight lines or oblongs to mirror the tartan design. I used a black suede leather on the sleeves, lower collar and pocket welts. The back of the coat also has black suede and red panels. The trim used to highlight some of the design lines is a silver and black stripe. 

Several toiles where made up beforehand to check and change the design lines and panel piece sizes.  The princess lines where moved from the underarm to the shoulders. Laying the pattern pieces on the fabric and the cutting out had to be precise to ensure that the pattern of the fabric lined up at the seam lines. The coat is underlined with a silk organza and lined with a red silk twill fabric. There are six bound button holes on the front. For the upper three I used black suede and for the lower three I used the quilted red fabric. I also quilted the red fabric for the front facings. There are two lower welt pockets which line up with the front lower panel. Silver buttons on the front and sleeves completed the coat.

I hope you enjoy looking at the photograph of my coat as much as I enjoyed making it.

TJsleeve2 TJCollar TJBack

Dress/ Dressmaking

My Christmas Dress

My dress for Christmas this year is made from a dark red Broderie Anglais, but not quite like your ordinary piece of fabric. This one has quite a large embroidered design with gold threads and a bit of diamonte bling. So because it is such a lovely fabric it really only needed a simple dress design.

I used a very simple shift dress pattern with a ‘V’ neckline. The fabric has a ‘cut out’ border along both edges so I used this to my advantage placing the pattern pieces along the borders for both the hem of the dress and the sleeve hems. 

I did not want to interupt the design of the fabric down the side seams so instead of just sewing ordinary seams I overlaid the front and back pieces and appliqued them together. (To do this it is imperitive that a toile is made beforehand as adjustments to fit are just not possible.)

I cut a strip from the border, gathered it up and added it to the neckline. The addition of a little extra diamonte bling to gave it a wow factor!

Sleeves Neckline