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Dressmaking/ Jacket

Tartan Jacket

With this Jacket I won a Stitcher of the Year competition with Love Sewing magazine, Sept 2016

I recently made this ¾ length jacket ready for the Autumn. The pattern for the coat is based on a Burda princess line coat pattern 8292, which I have had for some years, but I chopped it up to create the various panel pieces of the coat.

The main tartan fabric is from Linton Tweeds, the background is black with a white and dark red threads woven through to create the tartan design. For some of the accent panels I used a dark red fabric which has little squares embroidered on. To this I added a layer of wadding and quilted each panel either with just straight lines or oblongs to mirror the tartan design. I used a black suede leather on the sleeves, lower collar and pocket welts. The back of the coat also has black suede and red panels. The trim used to highlight some of the design lines is a silver and black stripe. 

Several toiles where made up beforehand to check and change the design lines and panel piece sizes.  The princess lines where moved from the underarm to the shoulders. Laying the pattern pieces on the fabric and the cutting out had to be precise to ensure that the pattern of the fabric lined up at the seam lines. The coat is underlined with a silk organza and lined with a red silk twill fabric. There are six bound button holes on the front. For the upper three I used black suede and for the lower three I used the quilted red fabric. I also quilted the red fabric for the front facings. There are two lower welt pockets which line up with the front lower panel. Silver buttons on the front and sleeves completed the coat.

I hope you enjoy looking at the photograph of my coat as much as I enjoyed making it.

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Dress/ Dressmaking

Red Silk Dress

I recently made a gorgeous red silk dress for a friend of mine for her son’s wedding in the sout of France. The design was based on a Vogue jacket pattern by Belville Sassoon but I altered the pattern into a dress ………… like you do!!

Made from a silk dupion I created lots of ruffles around the ‘boat’ neckline and because this sat at the top of the sleeve/shoulders it needed a boned bodice to prevent the dress from falling off the shoulders. 

Made from a silk dupion I created lots of ruffles around a ‘boat’ neckline and because the dress sat at the top of the arms/shoulders it needed a boned bodice to prevent the dress from falling from the shoulders. The back of the boned bodice was shaped to a ‘V’ and attached to the dress with yet more ruffles stitched into the back neckline and shoulders. The bodice fastened with hooks & eyes beneath the zipped back of the princess line dress. The back vent at the hemline of the dress was echoed in the ¾ length sleeves and highlighted with simple bows and adornments. The dress was underlined with a silk organza and lined with a silk habotai.

This dress took much deliberation to work out both the design and the construction process but was worth it in the end as she looked absolutely fabulous!

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